IT WAS an act of extreme foolishness to argue with the comment in the recent vodka column on this site (see Polish Vodka article by Susan Nowak), that a good Scot will never put water in his whisky.

I can hardly quibble with my punishment - a piece on the devil's liquid - and though my claim to being Scottish is limited to a great-grandfather from Perthshire, I know what I like to drink.

I enjoy malt whisky with an addition of about one part in five of still mineral water - preferably a brand as soft as possible, such as Highland Spring.

The geology of the northern home counties is completely different from the main whisky producing areas, rendering our tap water unsuitable. Soft water brings out the complexities in the taste and aromas of any malt you happen to be sampling - and there at least 200 to choose from.

The sensations become richer still if you open your mouth and breath in slowly while the spirit lies on your tongue, but the revolting death-rattle that ensues is no way to win friends and influence people.

Single malt whisky is, of course, more expensive than the blends enthusiastically promoted by Jules Holland - you will be lucky to find very much worth drinking below £23 a litre - but the extra lay-out is definitely rewarded.

The most popular malts are distilled in one of two quite distinct geographical areas, and even a novice can tell them apart.

Those from the Inner Hebrides, in particular Islay, are suffused with smoke and peat - Laphroaig (pronounced LAFFROIG) ten-year-old is the absolute classic.

Lagavulin 16-year-old is even more complex, although some find it so aromatic it is almost medicinal, and the small island of Jura, lying just off Islay, produces an eponymous malt whose oily nuttiness is instantly recognizable.

There are many more distilleries in Speyside, the area of Scotland between Inverness and Aberdeen which includes the ski resort of Aviemore and the royal castle at Balmoral.

Speyside malts are sweeter, and their appeal can be more subtle, but the range of tastes is ultimately richer.

The widely available Glenfiddich is not one of my favourites, although it has a pleasant creamy feel.

Glenlivet and Dalwhinnie are both superb, and Glenmorangie, from the other side of the Moray Firth, offers interesting varieties matured in Port, Madeira and sherry casks.

Other parts of Scotland make good whisky too - Highland Park from Orkney recently won a blind tasting competition.

All these malts are widely available - connoisseurs swear by the more elusive names, many from long-closed distilleries, and it can be a case of 'how much do you want to spend.'

If you are on a tighter budget, don't despair - Sainsbury and Tesco both produce very drinkable generic Islay malt whisky.

Then again, of course, there is whiskey - the "E" creeps in with both the Irish and American products.

Michael Jackson, who probably knows more about alcohol than anyone else alive, recently wrote an article in The Independent praising the range of flavours produced in the USA.

There are only two distilleries of single malt whiskey in Ireland - Bushmills in County Antrim, the oldest licensed distillery in the world, and Midleton near Cork in the Republic.

I haven't tried the produce of the latter, but Bushmills ten-year-old, whilst unpeated - unlike Scotch -and treble rather than double distilled, has a very enjoyable complex flavour.

December 19, 2001 11:30