TRADITIONALLY, pizza may not be deemed to be the last word in luxury dining, but at Oscars Pizza Company, what was once the staple food of the Italian peasant is given a touch of extravagance.

The restaurant and takeaway rises above the flat, breaded affair typified by the high street chains to which we have become accustomed, offering mouthwatering specials at reasonable prices, including pizza al salmone, a rich concoction of mozzarella cheese, smoked salmon, cream cheese and chives, and linguine al granchio, with fresh crab and fresh chopped chilli.

My companion and I were also overwhelmed by the menu selection, from the range of antipastas, breads and salads, including lnsalata Siciliana (fresh sliced oranges with red onions, black pepper and extra virgin olive oil) to the pizzas, pastas and house specials. So overwhelmed, in fact, that we found it difficult to choose, panicking that we might be missing out on some other gorgeous option.

In the end I opted for the Pavarotti, a thin crust pizza topped with mozzarella cheese, tomato, ham, pepper, onion, mushroom, egg and garlic. My vegetarian dining partner chose the calzone primavera, a folded pizza, filled with brie, sun dried tomatoes, mushroom, garlic and tomato sauce.

My pizza was delivered, freshly baked with an egg on top, without any noticeable wait. The combination of ingredients worked well together, the egg just the right side of runny, a generous layer of wafer thin ham, a sprinkling of green and yellow peppers. A big fan of both mozzarella cheese and garlic, I was pleased to discover their distinguishable flavours were unspoilt by the medley of toppings.

The pizza was huge, overhanging the plate. Although I had passed on the customary side order of bread and opted for a less filling mixed salad, subtly dressed in oil, one Italian beer later (a Messina) I was grateful for my cautionary approach.

Besides, I still had to sample my companion's bountiful meal. The calzone is a delicious alternative for those who find the pizza a little too dry. Moistened by the rich tomato sauce, the dish looks rather like a folded envelope and has the added bonus of keeping the filling hot inside. It was generously filled with sun dried tomatoes, and my companion had much more luck than I did devouring her meal. For dessert, she opted for the strawberry ice cream, while I chose the customary cappuccino.

Oscars also offer a comprehensive range of pasta dishes, from the traditional bolognese and carbonara, to the more unusual seafood specialities, including cozze di mare, fresh mussels cooked in white wine with tomato and garlic.

Oscars is a popular choice for local residents, who filled its tables even on a Monday night. The atmosphere was lively, without being overwhelming, and families, couples and larger groups seemed equally at home. The restaurant is welcoming both in terms of its appearance and its service.

The staff are polite and friendly, and the restaurant has a very Italian cosiness, being small and embracing but without the typical overbearing decor of the usual rustic European food hole.

Instead, it has a simple fresh look, clean without being cold and clinical. Enriched by the sounds of families enjoying their food and warmed by the smells of fresh baking, you could be forgiven for thinking that you were far away from Kings Langley and forgetting that it was a cold autumn day outside. - JD

Oscars Pizza Company, High Street, Kings Langley

Telephone: 01923 263800

Reproduced from Limited Edition magazine, exclusive guides to living in Hertfordshire, Middlesex and the London Borough of Barnet (01923 216295)

December 19, 2001 14:00