THEY don't like empty seats at AlFresco, so it's fortunate that's not a problem they encounter often. Regarded as one of the finest Italian restaurants in Barnet, it's no wonder that AlFresco is the regular haunt of some of the borough's top footballing and showbusiness celebrities.

The first thing to strike you is the restaurant's liveliness and energy, consistent with typical pizzerias in the Mediterranean.

Owner Giorgio, originally from Rimini, treated me and my dining companion to a light starter that will squeeze its way onto AlFresco's already packed menu soon: delicious slices of bruschetta with sun-dried tomato, rocket and baby mozzarella. That was just to whet our appetites.

Next, I chose parma ham with mozzarella and a rocket and basil sauce dressing. The soft mozzarella and melt-in-the-mouth ham complemented each other perfectly. My friend plumped for juicy king prawns, served with a tantalizing helping of garlic, ginger and chillies. Another ideal combination.

We really were spoiled for choice for main courses. After pondering the restaurant's best seller, pollo AlFresco (breast of chicken filled with mozzarella and spinach in tomato and basil sauce), I went for a wonderfully fresh and succulent chargrilled swordfish with wild herbs. Like all of the main courses, it was served with vegetables and potatoes of the day. My friend chose spaghetti with king prawns in a mouth-watering lobster and wine sauce.

Somehow, we both managed to fit in a dessert and coffee. I chose the traditional tiramisu which was as good as any I have tasted in Italy and my friend had a generous helping of profiteroles. We washed those down with a glass of Amaro Fernet Branca on ice, a

strange, but healthy tasting, infusion of alcohol, bitters and wild herbs.

AlFresco is a busy and bustling restaurant with a selection of food and wine unlikely to be rivalled anywhere. The staff are friendly and helpful and the restaurant would not be out of place in a quaint village somewhere in the Mediterranean.

Little did I know there was a real slice of Italy on my doorstep. - IL

AlFresco, 1327 High Road, Whetstone

Telephone: 020 8445 8880

Reproduced from Limited Edition magazine, exclusive guides to living in Hertfordshire, Middlesex and the London Borough of Barnet (01923 216295)

December 19, 2001 14:00