YOU may not have heard of the China Pearl in Denham, but if you are familiar with the area at all you will know the restaurant.

For many years, the premises were home to La Capelle, and it was reincarnated under its present name in 2001.

Situated just off the busy A412 North Orbital Road, and just a short stroll from Denham station, the China Pearl has already, in its short existence, attracted an enthusiastic following from among fans of good Chinese food in the immediate neighbourhood.

It is now seeking to make itself known more widely, and it deserves to succeed in its aim. A good restaurant is always worth travelling to.

Physically, this is not your traditional Chinese restaurant. The exterior retains the mock Tudor facade so common in this part of the world, albeit with tasteful green features added. Inside, it is larger than average and the decor does not scream "China" at you at every turn.

Its size need not be a disadvantage. One of my favourite Chinese restaurants (several hundred miles from Denham, so no competition) is a huge, barn of a place in the basement of an old warehouse, but the walls bulge with noisy atmosphere as diners tuck into some of the best Chinese food you can find.

As far as atmosphere is concerned, my dining partner and I did not see the China Pearl at it best. On a Wednesday evening, only a handful of dozens of tables were occupied and the conversation was muted. But this must surely change as the reputation of the restaurant's food and service spreads and more and more people are drawn in to fill the place.

The China Pearl concentrates on Peking and Szechuan cuisine, and does it extremely well. The menu is a work of art in its own right, with a breathtakingly wide a la carte selection of dishes available, including many specialities and variations on themes to tempt back time and time again diners who have favourites but appreciate variety.

My partner and I chose one of the four set meals (which include a vegetarian option). Some consider this a cop-out, but in Chinese restaurants, especially ones being visited for the first time, this is an ideal way to sample the range of food. We were not disappointed. Everything was first class, in particular the crispy duck pancakes, a favourite of mine and my infallible touchstone for judging any Chinese restaurant.

The China Pearl is a restaurant to which I would return, and when I do I hope I will find it packed. It deserves to be.

The restaurant is open seven days a week for lunch and dinner: Sunday to Thursday, noon to 2.30pm and 5.30pm to 11.30pm, and Friday and Saturday, noon to 2.30pm and 5.30pm to midnight. A take-away service is also available.

Group bookings for all kinds of functions are always welcome. Up to 100 people can be catered for. - CH

China Pearl, 10 Station Parade, Denham

Telephone: 01895 833048

Reproduced from Limited Edition magazine, an exclusive guide to living in Hertfordshire, Middlesex and the London Borough of Barnet (01923 216295)

December 19, 2001 14:30