IT'S always great to have the opportunity to escape to an exotic location such as Thailand, where you can blend into the fascinating culture, experience strange aromas, observe the people and sample the local cuisine.

But, unfortunately, this is not always possible, so a chance to enjoy a taste of Thailand right on your doorstep is very welcome, even if it's just for a couple of hours.

Thai George in Rickmansworth opened in September in response to the demand for Thai food in the area. The owner, Tom Roscoe, said: "The concept was to offer authentic Thai cuisine in modern, stylish surroundings. The emphasis has always been to produce quality Thai food in a relaxed, informal atmosphere."

And this is exactly what it does. I had the opportunity to dine at Thai George with a friend and our first impression was the buzzy atmosphere that met us as we entered, like a slice of trendy London dining brought to Rickmansworth. The staff were very friendly and accommodating and seated us immediately.

The decor is modern, emphasising space, with tasteful hints of Thai influence. The open-plan kitchen had a saloon-style wooden door in the shape of a Thai building and a few bamboo sticks concealing part of the interior, so it was not completely visible to diners. As I sat looking through the menu, a wonderful aroma invaded my senses. I couldn't work out what it was but the waiter told me it was jasmine.

Choosing a meal was a difficult decision as the choice was vast and all the dishes sounded very tempting. For starters, my friend ordered tod num pla, Thai fishcakes blended with long beans and lime leaves and served with a mixed vegetable and chilli pickle with ground peanuts. I had squid in the form of yum pla meuk, tossed with spicy dressing.

We decided to share the two starters as both looked too good to miss. The fishcakes were unusual but delicious, their flavour really enhanced by the sweet, yet savoury, dip, while the squid was in a delightful, and very addictive, dressing.

For the main course I ordered, from the specials board, a king prawn dish with a mild creamy Thai curry, jasmine rice and a side order of aubergine. My friend ordered phad phed talay, a mixed seafood dish with long beans in a chilli paste, flavoured with shallots and shrimps. Again, we were not disappointed. Thai food feeds all the senses, as well as one's hunger, with a variety of aromas, presentation to delight our eyes, and a chance to touch the food while eating the prawns, allowing us to lick our fingers with pleasure.

Coconut ice-cream and a dessert of warmed banana in coconut milk with sprinkles of sesame seeds rounded off a pleasant and fulfilling evening. - AK

Thai George, 4 Church Street, Rickmansworth

Telephone: 01923 776779

Reproduced from Limited Edition magazine, exclusive guides to living in Hertfordshire, Middlesex and the London Borough of Barnet (01923 216295)

December 19, 2001 15:00