HUNTERS is almost certainly Cockfosters' best-kept secret. The restaurant is tucked away among a parade of shops along Heddon Court Parade, but is a treat definitely worth exploring.

It is modelled on a French-style villa, complete with luscious countryside views from false windows, while the menu offers an enticing mix of international cuisine, ranging from fish, pasta and chicken to steaks, seafood and salads.

To start, my friend and I were spoiled for choice. Would we go for the melon in port, the Scottish smoked salmon or the escargots? Eventually, I selected fried camembert, with both gooseberry preserve and cranberry sauce, and my companion chose calamari fritti, deep fried squid served with tartare sauce. Both dishes so delicious that we shared samples and were left hungry for more.

We by-passed the soup option as we pondered over what to have for our main courses. We could have had varieties of trout, scampi, salmon, halibut or sole or four varieties of chicken. We also regretfully passed up the opportunity of sampling the most popular dish on the menu, kleftico, which is tender lamb served on the bone with a choice of rice or potatoes. Other dishes that tempted us included peppered steak, beef stroganoff and duck a l'orange.

Although pasta is a favourite of mine and I was sorely tempted by spaghetti with meatballs in a provencale sauce. or ravioles, pasta parcels filled and served with grated haloumi cheese I overcame all temptation and settled on escalope Hunters.

This was pan fried veal in light butter, with a dash of lemon sauce. My friend selected a fillet steak, on the advice of our friendly waiter, and we both chose to have our meals accompanied by delicious servings of courgettes and mushrooms (other vegetables on offer included leaf spinach, broccoli and onion rings).

Needless to say, these meals were truly mouthwatering. The meats were cooked to perfection and the mushrooms tasted beautiful. The saut potatoes that rounded off the main course were crispy and delicious.

Although we thought we were too full for dessert. we soon found some room when we spotted the delicious dessert tray circling the room. From among such delicacies as cheesecake, creme caramel and other cakes, we could have had bignolate, which is like reverse profiteroles. Instead I settled on a mouthwatering chocolate tiramasu and my friend decided to sample the special chocolate cake called "lumpy bumpy". Both were delicious, although we had come to expect nothing less by the end of the meal.

Hunters also offers an extensive wine list, which covers almost every taste range and is reasonably priced.

Whatever your tastes, I recommend visiting Hunters LB

Hunters, Heddon Court Parade, Cockfosters

Telephone: 020 8441 9009

Reproduced from Limited Edition magazine, exclusive guides to living in Hertfordshire, Middlesex and the London Borough of Barnet (01923 216295)

December 19, 2001 15:00