ORIGINALLY it was earmarked as the Watford Central station for the extended Metropolitan Line but that idea died many years ago as the Met Line terminated in West Watford, unable to cross Cassiobury Park.

Since then the building in Watford High Street opposite the junction with Clarendon Road has known many guises but nowadays, although the wrong side of the overpass to be deemed a part of the caf quarter, The Moon Under Water is probably the best-known of the newer theme bars and pubs in town. It may not have been the first, but its arrival, along with the illogical name, signalled the beginning of the sea change in retail drink dispensers in Watford.

It is popular with the more cerebral football fans before the matches at Vicarage Road and there has been the odd problem when away fans have frequented the bar taunting their rivals with quotes from Kafka I don't doubt. It's also popular with the theatre crowd, popping in for a bite to eat before taking a gentle stroll to Watford Palace Theatre.

The years when it was "the" place to go among those whose lives revolve around the caf quarter have passed, but it has had almost respectable mantle thrust upon it. It is one of the few bars in the vicinity in which you can hear yourselves talk, for they do not play piped music. Youngsters congregate there for more serious meetings before losing themselves further up The Parade, where presumably the need to hear yourself think becomes a minor consideration. So The Moon Under Water caters for a varied customer base including shoppers meeting for a bite and a chat.

We popped in there the other night and were pleasantly surprised. It is not my idea of a venue for an evening meal and languid discussions over a bottle of wine or two, coffee and liqueurs, but as a functional place for a quick and satisfying bite this J D Weatherspoon pub hits the spot.

You find a vacant table, note its number, order and pay for food at the bar and it is brought later to your table. I was surprised at the variety of dishes on offer: from Italian-styled baguettes (paninis) to an 8oz sirloin steak. The only item over £7 is the surf and turf with a 10oz rump steak, wholetail scampi and trimmings at £7.15.

We opted for the offer of two meals at £5.99, such as traditional fish and chips, spaghetti bolognaise, five-bean chilli, cottage pie, chilli con carne, caesar salad, vegetable burger, lasagne al forno, chicken burger or sausage, chips and baked beans.

After selecting a soup (£1.99), with some trepidation I chose the bolognaise with five per cent fat or less, and my colleague plumped for the five-bean chilli.

The result was a pleasant and tasty surprise. The soup was fine, and the bolognaise came in a generous portion, complete with grated Parmesan cheese. The five-bean chilli was similarly appreciated.

The service was quick, efficient with a no-nonsense approach and, after a dessert of chocolate fudge cake, I was ready to take in the best The Palace had to offer. A memorable meal? No, but certainly the tasty side of more than adequate.

Ranking: Three stars.