WHEN German icon Marlene Dietrich sang, "Ich hab noch einene Koffer in Berlin" ("I still keep a suitcase in Berlin"), the words rang with a certain poignancy over many successive decades.

Having endured a history of devestation, unemployment and division, Berlin was at one time not the obvious choice for tourists. But as Dietrich suggested, she would one day return to Berlin, for the city has more than its war wounds to offer.

Today, Berlin has finally emerged from the ashes and reinstigated itself as a vibrant, cultural centre situated within the heart of Europe. Once the symbol of clashing East and West sympathies, the city now stands as the capital of a reunified country and makes for a fascinating tourist destination.

For those making their first trip to the city, the impressive Brandenburg Gate is a must-see. Built in the 18th Century from sandstone, Berlin's only remaining city gate is based on part of the Acropolis in Athens. Reopened in 1989 after the collapse of Communism, the gate and the surrounding area has been pedestrianised, allowing tourists to wander freely.

The nearby Pariser Platz opens up into a wonderful boulevard, better known as Unter den Linden, which leads down to the Schlossbrucke bridge. Much like London's Pall Mall, the street is lined with a number of royal residences and buildings constructed under Frederick the Great in the 18th Century. By day or night, a walk down the avenue provides a wonderful way of viewing the older part of the city.

At the eastern end of Unter den Linden lies the Museuminsel (Museum Island) where a number of the city's galleries and museums can be found.

Also worth a visit is the Alexanderplatz, the most famous square in Berlin, which was once a bustling marketplace and, later, a parade ground. The square is home to the World Time Clock and the Fountain of International Friendship, which were both erected in 1969. For sweeping views of the city, try the Fernsehturm, which at a height of 368 metres is the highest building in Berlin. At the top of the tower stands a 118 metre-tall television antenna.

No journey through Berlin history would be complete without visiting the site of the notorious Checkpoint Charlie, the border crossing point that once stood between East and West Berlin.

Inside the Mauermuseum Haus, visitors can explore the history of the Berlin Wall and learn about innovative ways in which Berliners attempted to escape under and over the wall from East to West. A 1,316 metre section of the Berlin Wall has been preserved and stretches from Ostbahnhof station to the Oberbaumbrcke. In essence, the listed landmark now constitutes the world's largest open air gallery, with almost every part of the wall covered in spraypainted art.

A poignant symbol of Berlin's desire to rebuild without forgetting the past is encapsulated within the Gedachtniskirche or Memorial Church on Kurfurstendamm.

Originally built during the late 1800s, the church was mostly destroyed during World War Two, but the ruins were integrated into the new building. The memorial hall stands as a monument to peace and reconciliation.

During a break from sightseeing, visitors can treat themselves to a refreshing German beer available at one of the many "kneipe" or pubs in and around Berlin. For those wanting a typical Berliner dish, why not opt for a "Currywurst", a spicy sausage served with curried tomato sauce. Or for something sweeter, try some "Kaffee und Kuchen" (coffee and cake), which is something of a German institution available from most pavement cafes.

At night, Berlin offers everything from old Soviet era haunts through to cosmopolitan bars and Latino nightclubs. Head towards Oranienburger Strasse, which has unofficially been dubbed the party central of Berlin. The club scene is alive and kicking with a wide range of jazz, reggae and retro venues and as the birthplace of techno, Berlin has plenty of clubs offering trance, house and drum and bass.

Overall, the German capital offers a wonderful opportunity to explore the country's history and culture within a city that is perhaps unconventionally beautiful.

While steeped in its past, Berlin is very much a city striving towards renewal and regeneration.

Where to stay
Kempinski Hotel Bristol ****
Swissotel ****
Park Inn Berlin-Alexanderplatz ***

Getting there
Direct flights are available from London airports to Berlin.

Getting about
Berlin is served by an extensive U-Bahn (underground) network and buses. Taxis can also be hailed in the street and are cheaper than in other parts of Germany.

Must do
For visitors to Berlin between February 10 to 20, the Berlinale (International Berlin Film Festival) offers around 400 films from around the world. For more information, visit the website www.berlinale.de