WE did not know it then, but the pub scene was to become irrevocably altered. The increasingly strict application of the drink-driving laws were changing the emphasis, particularly with regard to country pubs. They had a need to diversify.

Some 28 years ago, there was quite a furore over The Gate, Chorleywood, a long-established country pub with roots in the village's history. It was going to become a theme pub, much to the anger and protest of a long-established customer-base. It was a new concept then and the regulars were accorded great sympathy from drinkers everywhere but little did we know it was the shape of things to come, with pubs closing as the Kings Head and opening the next day under some such banner as The Inebriated Tadpole.

The Gate became the Jenny Wren to the annoyance of "disgusted of The Clump", and after a period as a restaurant, was converted again and attracted a largely young clientele with the attendant hints of drug culture. So the memories of the old Gate of the early 1970's were laid to rest along with Edward Heath, Richard Nixon and Angel Delight.

But now the old familiar pub name is back, as the Jenny Wren has flown and, in its place, is a lively and deservedly popular country pub/eating establishment: The Gate.

Billed as a rotisserie, catering with "chargrill, spitroast, fish, risottos, woodfried pizza and crustea", it is more restaurant than pub, although it does have a comfortable bar area, and, on the evidence of one visit, they certainly look after their ales. The company has two or three other similar venues in the home counties and is obviously following a successful format.

Since its recent re-opening in its new guise, I have heard good reports, and when we popped along for a meal we were not disappointed. The service was efficient and supportive and, as we took our seats at the table, we were immediately impressed by the quality of the bread.

The menu is divided into five sections: little dishes, leaves, fired pizzas, pastas and grill/rotisserie with a back up of "starches/greens", but they also have specials, which vary from night to night.

As a starter, we enjoyed the onion toast and goat's cheese and another dish of grilled sardines, sourdough toast, sunblush tomatoes and garlic the sardines were excellent, presented as fish fillets.

I chose stroganoff from the specials, which was presented with the meat cut as it was meant to be (in strips), and had a superb savoury tang instead of the sweeter versions one comes across. My colleague was similarly delighted after opting for garlic spit chicken with lemon and fries.

We declared ourselves well-satisfied with the filling repast, the wine, indeed the entire experience of eating at The Gate, and duly retired to the bar for a coffee, with neither of us having room to negotiate the dessert menu.

Settling into the comfortable seats, we noted a group of eight youngsters had commandeered two tables, but when they left, they put the chairs and tables back as they found them. Another impressive moment in a generally impressive evening.

Telephone 01923-282053 for bookings.

Rating: four stars.