SURELY you have been to The Grove. It's a must. How many times have I heard a comment along those lines? Invariably I have responded with the hopefully withering put-down that I was one of the first to play the golf course when it was completed, but more often than not they are referring to the restaurant, or should I say restaurants?

There is a choice of three. There is The Stables, which is for the more impoverished souls, many of whom have just forked out £75 or more for a round of golf. Then there is Collette's, which I understand should not be undertaken without at least the tacit approval of your bank manager. Midway between in the price-range is The Glasshouse.

Four of us headed that way the other day, driving through the impressive front entrance off Watford's Hempstead Road to The Grove, which all the prevarication cannot delude, is actually in Watford.

It was raining and the sky was in its typical depressing January state, but the aura and ambience of the place pleasantly envelops you even on the greyist of days. It is said that a visit to The Grove unveils a succession of "wow factors" and that is not far wrong. After the meal, we took coffee for four (£12) in one of the maze of ante-rooms behind the reception, each of which is a study in quality and harmonic design.

The Glasshouse is billed as "an international cooking theatre", with chefs preparing British, Asian and Mediterranean dishes. They don't do menus it is a serve-yourself buffet at £27.50 per head and in the context of the quality on offer and the five-star surroundings of this unique Watford facility, it is worth it.

Experience from school cross-country racing, when everyone charged down the field from the off only to tire quickly as the first incline took its toll, enabled me to ensure I was last out of the field next time round and I duly overhauled scores up the incline.

So, unlike some others I could mention, my starter plate was a shining example of moderation. Mind you, the starters on offer include a mouth-watering variety of sea food and fish, pasta and vegetarian dishes that it is hard to resist indulging yourself as you take a plate and fork in a sample of this and that. There is indeed something for everyone in what is quality fare and presentation.

The main courses include an extensive carvery, fish and stir-fry offerings and I was able to go for it, indulging myself in something from pretty well every section purely to obtain a rounded view on the whole buffet, you understand, although I did finish with a more rounded profile.

Then came the sweets, which are almost worthy of the description "inspired" but certainly of sufficient appeal to cause even the most calorie-conscious to take a day off from their self-inflicted regimen.

At £27.50, it is not a bargain lunch/dinner but, as you leave what is really Watford's only surviving stately home, you know it was money well spent on a rewarding, enriching experience.

Booking advisable on 01923 296015.

Rating: Four stars.